Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Cool Water=Hot Bite




Greetings Anglers,


The water in the river has cooled off dramatically, resulting in a good bite this afternoon. The water was in the mid-50's near the top of the incoming tide. This is more that 10 degrees cooler than just last week. Also, there's plenty of bait in the river too. I expect fishing to hold up from now until Nov.




Also, Action Jackson's Guide Service offers discounts for multi-day bookings. So, if you're in town, let's go fishing for a couple of days!




Here's this week's Siuslaw News story...




Fishing Cut Plug Herring

Last time we got together, I talked about the method I use to brine herring for salmon fishing. Today, I’d like to talk about fishing the bait you’ve prepared. And though it may seem like there’s a lot to it, after only a short time you’ll be fishing cut plug herring like a pro.

Why Cut Plug Herring?
The main reason cut plug herring is preferred is that you can get the herring to spin, which is the reason salmon will strike the bait. The herring’s head is cut in such a way that it spins while trolled. You can get a good spin from whole herring by moving the front hook toward the back hook, making a bend in the herring. To me, this is not as precise and repeatable, so I prefer the cut plug herring. Also, with a whole herring, you can’t use fixed hooks. You need to use a sliding front hook. After a while, the front hook slides too easily toward the back hook, causing the herring to spin improperly.

What Size Herring to Buy
Though it’s open to debate, I prefer the “Blue Label” herring for cut plugging. The Blue Label herring are larger than the “Green Label” herring and hold up well for trolling (especially after proper brining). Many anglers use the Purple or Black Label herring, subscribing to the theory “larger bait = larger fish”. The fact is no herring commercially available is too big for a salmon to take, so feel free to experiment with larger herring.

The Hook Setup
Start with two hooks: a 5/0 and a 6/0. Cut your leader, approx. 5 ½’ feet of 20-30 lb. test monofilament. Tie on your 6/0 hook with an egg loop. Run your leader through the 5/0 down to the 6/0 hook, leaving a gap between them of about 3-4 inches. Tie on the 5/0 hook with another egg loop. Now the hooks are fixed in place and won’t slip down. Not sure about tying the egg loop? Illustrations are available in the back of many tide books, and also online at http://www.piscatorialpursuits.com/resourcecenter/bumperknot.htm.

Cutting And Hooking the Herring
Start with a very sharp knife. You don’t want to “saw” through the herring. Place the knife behind the gill plate and at a 45 degree angle. Now, turn the blade at a 45 degree angle and cut through the fish. If looking down at the top of the fish, the cut is not flush, its at a 45 degree angle. If looking at the herring from the side, its also cut at a 45 degree angle. There are many plastic and metal plug cutters available to help you get the right angles. Pick up one, and use it until you get the process down. Also, check out this step-by-step tutorial at http://www.salmonuniversity.com/ol_htrh_pc1_index.html.

After cutting the herring, run the back hook through the short side of the herring and pull it all the way through. You can let this hook dangle free. Run the top hook through the dorsal (top) side of the herring. When you’re at trolling speed, drop the rig overboard and make sure its rolling (spinning) properly.

There’s a lot of information here. If you’re still unsure about any step of the process, shoot me an e-mail and I’ll walk you through it.

Drop me a line and let me know what you think about these or other topics.

See you on the water,
Action Jackson

(Please send comments or questions to Action Jackson at 268-6944 or http://www.actionjacksonfishing.com/)


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